Neely Quinn: Itâs kind of like a blessing in disguise where you get the perspective that a lot of people never have. Kyra Condie: Yeah, I know a lot of people who time it. Kyra Condie: It sometimes hurts me and I climb really fast, which I think might have something to do with it. You can do it once in every three day cycle if you do it on the big rungs, in my opinion. I am not a huge fan of them. Like, who do you think can benefit from this and who do you think should just give it some time? What I normally do is Iâll warm up, like I was saying, to 80% maximal and then I like to do one-arm hangs. Kyra Condie: Thatâs my excuse for the moment. I actually sprained my LCL. No, itâs not too bad at all, actually. Itâs a great way to start off the morning with chocolate chip pancakes. Like just boulder and donât do any other things? On The Spot ... Shoreview's Kyra Condie Heading To Olympics In 1st-Ever Sport Climbing Competition4 Americans will compete in the new ... High School Sports Rally. It was the worst weather for climbing. Kyra Condie: Yeah, I have some really great sponsors that really help me a lot and then also, just with the number of competitions that I was able to do last year and I was able to get second or first at a lot of them, not all of them, obviously, but enough that that actually funded itself pretty well. I donât eat those so I donât know, but you can make them and theyâre delicious. I needed to get out of my head. Thatâs one thing that Iâve done a lot. So you have like a gap year. I went to the Red when I was like 12, before I got back surgery, and other than that Iâve climbed a couple days here and there at a place that we have near where I live in Minnesota and a couple of days out here in Utah. Focus on climbing.â Especially when youâre at that age, because you just improve so fast. Mine was called Idiopathic Scoliosis which basically means they donât know why I had it. She showed an appetite for height long before then. Kyra Condie: I donât practice speed very much, really at all. Youâre not so much of a slab climber. Itâs annoying but itâs not at all debilitating. Hopefully this episode will be good in that respect and every future episode will be better. Youâve done a really great job of, just like your climbing, quickly and efficiently answering all of my questions. It kind of depends on skin and I try to listen to the body. Thatâs cool. USA Climbing 2019 Combined InvitationalCombined final results Women 1. From what I know, whey protein is just the superior source of protein for supplements but Iâve tried both and I like them both. Kyra Condie: Yeah, in some ways. Iâm sure there are a lot of vegetarians listening to this. Kyra Condie: Yeah, and I try and just do that no matter what. They work my core almost more than anything and I think they get your shoulders really well. Kyra Condie: The reason why is that I donât want campusing to be limited by finger strength. How do you quantify your progress in a regular gym where theyâre always resetting? Neely Quinn: Yeah, like mental training to have not gotten so frazzled or what do you think? Itâs not as good for my type of style, I think, so I think thatâs been hard transitioning outside a little bit, but Iâve gotten a lot better at it, too, since Iâve kind of changed my focus from being just a competition climber to outdoor and a competition climber. I know a lot of people have done that. I was not being able to do the first move and I just kept trying it over and over and over again, so it took like five attempts when it should have taken like two. I need to keep doing it.â My coaches would actually get mad at me all the time because Iâd be like, âI canât do it,â and theyâd be like, âDonât say that.â Itâs kind of a part of my process of failure, to be like, âI canât do it. Like on teams? Itâs really admirable, too. I like Clif bars or really any type of bar. Kind of what I do on a day-to-day basis is I go to the gym and I warm up climbing because I think climbing is the best way to warm up for climbing, you know? Maybe itâs moving kind of laterally to the side and not always up. Neely Quinn: Yeah, Iâve been doing those during handstand workouts. That kind of comes into play a lot, like the weird moves in competitions where youâre in a corner and you have to bend your back, I canât do and have to find a different way around them. Easy, simple, and like you said it has protein, carbs, and fat. She is the first U.S. high school girl … But yeah, I try not to pay attention to it. Iâm not vegan so I get a lot of my protein from milk and I occasionally supplement with whey protein or vegan protein. Yeah, I think getting stronger in bouldering definitely improved my speed climbing. Kyra Condie: No, Iâm not injured. Say someone could only hang it for two seconds with body weight. Well, once in every three-day cycle so itâs kind of in every three or four days. Iâve done the one in Munich and Vail and this year Iâm going to go to the two in China and then thereâs one in Tokyo and then thereâs one in Vail, so Iâm going to do all four of those. It sometimes hurts me and I climb really fast, which I think might have something to do with it. Theyâre kind of miserable. How are you training right now? It used to be that if I could hear how people were doing Iâd get freaked out so Iâd listen to music super loud and not know how anyone was doing and I just decided that was probably not the best way of going about it, so I stopped listening to music while I was waiting. Deep Water is a short film, produced by MHW climber Jon Glassberg and his media company Louder Than Eleven, that explores fear and mentorship among the karst formations of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam. Since whenever I got back from traveling last summer. Rachel Blount is a sports reporter for the Star Tribune who covers a variety of topics, including the Olympics, Wild, college sports and horse racing. I definitely prefer bouldering. Itâs what keeps her happy.â. Can we talk about your training for a little bit? I fractured both of my growth plates when I was 12 from just climbing a lot. Every time, everyone is like, âWhat the heck?â, Yeah, like, âThatâs your back? In semi-finals we had a really hard route and I got third on it and then finals was too easy and I got seventh because I kind of messed up down low and it kind of made me tired for the top and I guess I misread the beta at the top, too, because you were supposed to use this last volume and I just went for the dyno because thatâs what we read it as from the ground. Iâm still working on getting consistent on 1, 5, 8. [laughs] I think Sierra listened to me. Iâm super happy that you guys have taken to this podcast and that people are listening to it and hopefully getting some good information from it. Your power must be really up if youâre that fast now. If your max is V4, the difference between you and a V2 climber may only be you know how to use your body and how to climb but once you get to kind of that V4/V5 level I think thatâs when you can start trying to improve strength-wise and thatâs when you see the improvements between V5 to V10. Youâre not on the hangboard for like two hours which some people are. Kyra Condie: Even though itâs a little negative. I didnât know if I would ever be good again, [laughs] you know? I do that twice, usually. Oh, so youâll warm up climbing and then youâll do a session, either campusing or fingerboarding, and then youâll climb for a whole session. Thatâs a way of pre activating your muscles or something. The setting here is really good and thereâs a couple different gyms, and thereâs actually a home wall that Iâve climbed on. Slow down!â I donât know. Kyra Condie: Well, I guess I havenât had a project, like a hard outdoor project, in a long time. Well, thatâs all the questions I have for you, honestly. Other than that I havenât really climbed outside sport climbing much at all. So, I want to know about how your climbing has progressed over the years, how you feel about competition climbing as opposed to climbing outside, and things like that. The boys are so fast so they need the autobelays. Do you have any other training things that you do or is it basically just these three things and climbing? Theyâre sticky rice and you can put fruit or chocolate. Yeah, I think thatâs basically what Iâve had to do. Women’s Speed was the first event, with Kyra Condie vs. Claire Buhrfeind. That is: what did you think about Nationals this year, both sport – well, sport, speed, and bouldering? I had interviewed on video Carlo Traversi, Angie Payne, Paige Claassen, Jamie Emerson, and I was going to publish them as videos. You need to be falling all the time.â. Kyra Condie: Itâs surprisingly far. Then I do a set of âsmaller move pull-throughâ, is what I call it, so thatâs doing 1, 4 to max. Yeah, so all of July and half of June, so that will be really fun. Kyra Condie: Yeah, so I finished with classes for my undergrad degree and Iâm getting my undergrad degree in animal science, which is a pre-vet degree. Neely Quinn: Yeah, it sounds like youâve kind of made your way around certain things. I mean, you donât have to get into details but I feel like climbers in the United States are underfunded because we donât have the money that European climbers do, for instance. I just work in a vet clinic here to get those 400 hours done. Is it something where youâre kind of like, âWell, Iâm just not going to climb as much after this year,â or what are you thinking with that? I know there are going to be some people who start doing one-arm training because of you. As a serious comp climber, she takes her training seriously, and you may have seen videos of her floating around social media. Kyra has an aggressive and quick climbing style that has contributed to her success. Yeah. I pay attention to it occasionally. Then I knew, and I just started sobbing. It should be okay. Then, Iâm planning on training for all of August when I get back because I get back at the very end of July, and focus and put all my energy into World Champs which is in Innsbruck in – whenever that is – September. Okay,â but I try to not think about it too much. Kyra Condie: It wasnât actually an injury. When Iâm campusing I donât want to be limited by my fingers giving out so if Iâm doing it on the smallest rungs I definitely canât do it on 1, 5, 8. Itâs so much easier to get outside bouldering because you donât need to find a belay partner and swap belays. Condie didnât fully understand that until a decade ago, when she was knocked off the wall for four months. 8 North Carolina State women beat No. I guess I kind of plan on being able to do everything. New COVID study gives at-home monoclonal antibody treatment, Mpls. I donât know. Thanks for sticking with me through that. I think having it at that point in my life, like having climbing getting taken away from me, made it so that I loved it even more and I was just rearing to go when I got back. Neely Quinn: Iâve actually heard that you had a back injury? I have to get to the top,â and then some people it hurts. Well, I guess I havenât had a project, like a hard outdoor project, in a long time. Yeah, you just start pulling the growth plate away from the bone. Kyra Condie: You know, I want to do just the stabilizer things not even with weight but kind of body weight exercises then also some one-legged squats is what I was doing a lot of, kind of adding weight there. I would take it slowly. Yeah, Iâve had a lot of people be like, âOh, I donât want to campus because I donât want to get injured.â Itâs like, âIf you do it right you might not get injured.â. Kyra Condie: That one I mostly do because itâs just the classic campus exercise. Thatâs what sets her apart.â. Thanks again and Iâll talk to you soon. I havenât had a lot of practice on them, to be honest, but I feel like Iâm best at grabbing a better hold on a steep angle and being able to power through that rather than grabbing bad holds at a lesser angle. Iâm 21. So this doesnât take you – it probably takes you like 30-45 minutes or something? Yeah, itâs been working pretty well. How do you do this? If I had somebody who was working with me and told me specifically how to do it and if I was doing it right then I would for sure be down to try it, but yeah, without that Iâm a little afraid so I kind of stay away from it. Yeah, and I try and just do that no matter what. I donât know. Neely Quinn: That is interesting. . Thatâs intense. Today begins the qualifying round of the 2014 SCS (Sport Climbing Series) Open National Championship at Sender One Climbing, Chris Sharma’s gym located in Santa Ana, CA.. Once again from Minnesota, Kyra Condie will be competing against the best women sport climbers in the country for the title of Open National Champion. I really like making coconut milk curry and I have it with cauliflower, spinach, broccoli, coconut milk and kind of thatâs it and Iâll put it on rice with curry. I post about it like once a year on the anniversary of my back surgery. Despite spinal fusion, Olympic climber Kyra Condie keeps reaching new heights. Kyra Condie: I definitely prefer bouldering. How do you feel when you feel like youâre completely rested? I really want to go to the Red maybe this fall and Iâm maybe going to Spain in the fall. I went to the Red when I was like 12, before I got back surgery, and other than that Iâve climbed a couple days here and there at a place that we have near where I live in Minnesota and a couple of days out here in Utah. Climbing is totally anaerobic soâ¦. Kyra Condie: Well, Iâm pretty young, I guess, in the scheme of things. Neely Quinn: Do you have an opinion about all of that? Slightly bent elbow and Iâm in a half-crimp position, but I think the best position is whatever feels the best for the hangboarding workout. I donât know. Momentum Millcreek, for example, right now has probably around 11 V10s up and I think Iâve done them all. Push-ups or dips. One of my biggest things that Iâve done in the past year is just trying to repeat climbs that Iâve already done, even if they were hard or especially if they werenât my style because I think thatâs really beneficial. Iâm trying to like them and I do kind of but they still kind of scare me as far as foods go because I didnât like them for so long. Itâs a flat edge, itâs not incut, and it has a rounded edge which is just nice for the skin. People hate hangboarding because of repeaters and they have this horrible idea about hangboards. Thatâs probably one of the other things. I try and do front levers, planches – I canât do a planche, I do them assisted – and one-arm pull-ups with assistance sometimes, sometimes without if I can do one on that day. How many days would you say you just go in the gym and boulder? Neely Quinn: So thank you very much and I wish you luck on your gap year and everything you have going this year. Itâs part of – thereâs a chain of gyms in Minneapolis called Vertical Endeavors and there was one wall in one of the gyms that was the best wall ever. With her spine fused from the base of her neck to the bottom of her rib cage, Condie canât always twist and bend as other climbers do. Iâve always been able to do one with one leg out and one leg in but Iâve never been able to do one for more than a second with both legs out, like a classic front lever challenge. Right hand and left hand, no, but then I rest for four minutes afterward. Great. I definitely think itâs a pretty cool story and itâs one that not a ton of people know. It was the only thing I was better at when I got back. Glad to be here. Sheâs done V12 outside and in the comp scene sheâs done extremely well. WCCO 4 News At 10 – April 8, 2020 Theyâre really good. Theyâre amazing. Youâre not on the hangboard for like two hours which some people are. Here's where you can get statistics, TV information and more to follow Sunday's game between the Vikings and Jacksonville at U.S. Bank Stadium. Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. I donât know much about it but Iâve heard thatâs a really good way to build power as well so Iâve tried to do that a couple times. That was perfect timing for Condie, who was two years into her animal science studies at the University of Minnesota after graduating from Mounds View High School. So you just had to get your priorities straight. Bad weather meant you rested when I was in Africa so I guess I donât really have a good answer to that. Neely Quinn: Okay, so what are you plans for – you said maybe going to Spain, youâre not sure – the next year and a half? Neely Quinn: Yeah, it also seems like itâs probably good for competition, like to really learn how to be strong on day two. Iâm from Minnesota. Itâs just hard to get enough, as a vegetarian especially. Iâve done those cardio classes occasionally with friends and thatâs kind of fun, like miserable but fun because youâre with people, but I find it hard to get motivated to do by myself. Youâre clearly good at trying hard. Iâm 21. Neely Quinn: What do you usually do? Condie is particularly strong in bouldering but is an adept all-rounder, winning the 2019 U.S. combined title and the 2018 Pan American championship. Neely Quinn: Huh. Kyra Condie: I havenât really practiced it since I was in Youth. Kyra is a professional climber born and raised in St. Paul, Minnesota. Do you want to take me through the years? Yeah, so do you think that there was anything you could have done differently? No big deal. Kyra Condie: No, I think I covered everything I figured I would share in a training podcast. So you just had to get your priorities straight. You can probably hang basically the same amount of time but if you make it from 15 to 20 youâll probably notice a big difference. I try and do – what else is there? [laughs] I think Sierra listened to me. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Itâs just your fingers get strong, especially in climbing in places like Rocky Mountain National Park or Hueco. I was like, âYes! Or, if itâs a hangboarding day, Iâd do the same thing and then go and hangboard. Kyra Nancy is on Facebook. One of my biggest things that Iâve done in the past year is just trying to repeat climbs that Iâve already done, even if they were hard or especially if they werenât my style because I think thatâs really beneficial. Other than that I havenât really climbed outside sport climbing much at all. Kyra Condie: Itâs shame but itâs try hard.